A Tour Through Madrid’s Sizzling Dining Scene 

Most people think of Madrid for its rich history and cultural attractions. A day out and about in the city is like being in an open-air museum. Everywhere you walk there is a commercial building, residential home, or street corner with historical significance. Some people are absolutely stunned by the fact that there are ancient Roman ruins right on the outskirts of this Spanish city. And all of those are legit aspects of Madrid’s charm. My main interest, however, is of a much different and singular cultural fascination: the food.

Don’t get me wrong, I have a great appreciation for the historical wonders of Madrid. But in my eight-year relationship with the city, I have made a deep connection with its restaurants, food, and people. The dining scene here is so vast. From corner cafes, to traditional ‘tabernas” (taverns) that serve classic tapas (think Spanish tortilla, fried croquetas and sliced jamón,) to refined restaurants that are pioneering exciting new culinary concepts, you can experience it all.

Tapas bars and Tabernas

Like the museums of Madrid, the tapas bars and tabernas within the city often have a strongly rooted history. Their stories lie in the generations of families and owners who have inhabited the same space and preserved a consistent style of culinary preparations since their founding. It’s always special to experience these spaces. Whether you’re leaning against the bar and chatting with the owner, or sitting on a stool in the window rubbing shoulders with other locals, the food is humble, delicious and authentic. The stories that emerge from these places, in turn, have greatly enriched my experience in Madrid along the way.

So, let’s take a trip to a few spots I hold near and dear. Places that not only have a rich history within the city, but also have impacted my time in Madrid over the years, and evoke nostalgia whenever I visit them.

Casa Emilio

Casa Emilio is a small corner bar in the neighborhood of Prosperidad. Open since 1947, Jose Maria has been running the space since his father passed it down to him in the early 2000’s. Its striking vibrant red paint job with a beautiful mosaic of tiled graphics on the front can grip anyone passing by—but perhaps more so, the large painted graphics of “VINO,” “CERVEZAS,” “APERITIVOS” and, my personal favorite, “VERMOUTH.”

The day I met my now Spanish fiancé, she had purchased an apartment on the same street as Casa Emilo. It quickly became a place that marked the early stages of our relationship—especially when we were separated by distance during the pandemic. I would fly in for a week at a time from New York City to visit Marta in Madrid, and our first stop was always Jose Maria’s bar.

We always pair our order with a gilda—a classic Basque pintxo composed of an olive, anchovy and guindilla pepper.

Upon walking in guests see a collage of menu items plastered across the walls, covered in prices that have clearly been adjusted over the years. At an aged yet elegant marble bar—the restaurant’s focal point—a faded golden tap that pours one thing only: “vermut de grifo,” (vermouth on tap). This has been our go to drink before diving into a meal nearly every time we go there. Served with a handful of potato chips, we always pair our order with a gilda—a classic Basque pintxo composed of an olive, anchovy and guindilla pepper.  A salty, briny, and harmonious bite of three ingredients that are very important to Spanish cuisine and prepares the stomach for what’s to come next.

Fresh Seafood: A Coastal Experience in Madrid

Our next stop is in the center of the city. Bar El Boqueron in the vibrant neighborhood of Lavapies has been open since 1949, and is so iconic because of its exclusively fresh seafood from the North and South of Spain. Many visitors think the food of Madrid is fried or heavy like croquetas, patatas bravas, and chicharones. While those foods are prevalent throughout the city’s culinary scene, Madrid is the capital of Spain—located in the center of the country—putting it in a prime position to receive all of the gastronomic gems each region has to offer.

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His grill sizzles with gambas (shrimp,) cigalas (Norwegian lobster) and merluza (hake,) garnishing everything with olive oil and salt.

When arriving at Bar El Boqueron, you’ll usually see a line of people waiting outside hoping to grab an open space at the bar. There are napkins and shrimp shells scattered across the floor, which for me only adds to the authenticity of the space. The bustling sounds of two waiters calling out orders and sliding cañas across the bar fill the restaurant. There’s a small flat top grill in the corner operated by the owner’s son; a one man show responsible for feeding the entire bar. His grill sizzles with gambas (shrimp,) cigalas (norwegian lobster) and merluza (hake,) garnishing everything with olive oil and salt.

I’ve been coming here with my partner for years. She grew up next to the sea, and her love of pescado (fish) and marisco (shellfish) makes Bar El Boqueron a seafood temple for the both of us. It’s a place to experience the freshest local ingredients in the center of the city, while enjoying the foods we love best. It will always be a special place for the two of us. And since fresh seafood typically leaves you with space to eat more, we stroll along to our next stop.

Bar Cervecería El Greco

Bar Cervecería El Greco is located in the neighborhood of Arguelles. A family run business, this classic bar and restaurant has been serving locals since 1931. Guests are greeted by a warm smile and a wave from the owner, Andres and his son, Jorge. With its tiled floors, wooden barrel tables, legs of jamón hanging from the ceiling, and old clocks lining the walls, it feels like a bar that has been frozen in time—a classic Madrid tavern. The only modern touch I notice is that they now take credit cards.

Beyond getting a glimpse of old Madrid, we come here to enjoy the “tosta.” This is a beautiful staple in the city’s gastronomy: an open faced sandwich on crusty bread that’s filled with different Spanish ingredients. Jamón with brie, ventresca (tuna belly) with tomato, matrimonio (anchovies and boquerones), and cured cod fish, each take your taste buds on a different soaring culinary adventure.

After another special day dining out in Madrid and connecting with places that mean so much to me, my partner and the city, our day of eating finally comes to a close. Who knows, we might go to a museum tomorrow, but we’ll definitely hit another restaurant or two on the way.

Max Rosenberg